The pizza maker Yoann Mormile won the prize for the best Neapolitan pizza in France. His restaurant, La Pulcinella, is based in the center of Bourg-en-Bresse (Ain).
“Neapolitan pizza is an art, Neapolitan pizza maker, a profession.” These are the first words of Yoann Mormile in reaction to his title for the best Neapolitan pizza in France. Indeed, in Lyon, the judges of the 2021 International Restaurant, Hotel and Food Show considered that his recipe was the best in the country.
“It is the recognition of many years of sacrifice and it is an opportunity to talk about our art”he recalls proudly.
His story is that of an enthusiast who chose to have one foot in France and the other in Italy. Born in Bourg-en-Bresse, Yoann is the son of a Neapolitan. At each holiday in the boot, he soaked up the inimitable taste of pizza. But impossible to find these flavors in France.
After studying stonemasons, Yoann went to live for a while in Italy, “at grandma’s”. A local rugby team took him on board and helped him find a job. A turning point in his life.
With humility and determination, the Bressan went to a master pizza maker named Mario, and had to show a lot of persuasion for him to accept him in the kitchen. These skills are normally transmitted only from father to son or within a family. Yoann agreed to stay 18 months without salary, the time to learn or rather to receive this transmission.
The Italo-Bressan then left for Australia. In Melbourne, he came across… Neapolitans who gave him other secrets. And Yoann became a pizza master after an intensive internship in Naples.
The rest of the story is written in Bourg-en-Bresse, on the small Place des Cordeliers where Yoann Mormile opened his restaurant in 2019. He spends hours there preparing his fire, making his dough, his tomato sauce … and when asked about his pizzas, he answers in numbers: “60 to 90 seconds at 450 degrees, this cooking is essential”.
Report Franck Grassaud and Maryne Zammit
video length: 02 min 44
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